KNYSNA
Located on a tidal lagoon, Knysna (the ‘k' is silent) is now one of the main hubs of the Garden Route, and makes an ideal base from which to explore. Its name derives from a Khoi word, meaning ‘hard to reach' – which remained true into the 20th century, and which preserved the Georgian and Victorian buildings at the heart of the village.
In the 19th century, Knysna was a small village in the midst of massive yellowwood and stinkwood forests, settled by woodcutters and their families. It developed as a port for the timber trade. Fortunately, conservation policies introduced in the late 19th century saved some of the remaining forest, and, without trees to fell, the timber trade went into decline.
Knysna has a human-size centre, with many excellent shops, restaurants and delicatessens; and great seafood, including cultivated and wild oysters. The Knysna Quays are a small-scale waterfront complex and marina where you can wander round the boutiques, eat delicious oysters, or sip a cooing drink looking out over the lagoon.
Sit on the quay and watch the world go by; take a boat trip across the lagoon to Featherbed Nature Reserve and around Knysna Heads; or discover the superb forests, lakes, mountains and rivers nearby. There is a plethora of wildlife, including waterfowl and forest birds, and the area has some of the best golf courses in South Africa. Knysna is not the place for the beach, but there is fine swimming in the lagoon and the stunning beach at Brenton-on-Sea is only 20 km away.
PLETTENBERG BAY
Plettenberg Bay, or ‘Plett' as it is known, at the centre of the Garden Route, is South Africa's unofficial vacation capital, and on the “must do” list of virtually everyone travelling to this part of the world.
The town itself is a suburban sprawl, but the beaches are reckoned to be among the finest in the world: 10 crescent-shaped kilometres of sand pounded by the Indian Ocean. Approaching from the west, the first thing you see is the Robberg Peninsula jutting out into the ocean for three kilometres, protecting the whole bay from westerly winds and giant waves. On the east side of the peninsula is Robberg Beach, then Central Beach, followed by Lookout Beach, which is a favourite with surfers.
Plettenberg Bay
Central Beach is for more active pursuits like hobie cats and windsurfing. Lookout Rocks is a good spot for angling, as is Keurboomstrand, a little further up the coast, where you can line fish off the rocks.
Dolphins and whales (in season) can be seen from the shore, but for a closer look, book a boat trip into the bay. Whales often arrive as early as June and are still there in November.
Holidaymakers usually prefer to stay out of town in more rural surroundings. To the east, as you come into Tsitsikamma Forest, there are some great places to stay ranging from the five-star Kurland estate, through Hog Hollow Country Lodge , possibly the finest establishment on the Garden Route, to Bitou River Lodge , a super little bed and breakfast. To the west, towards Knysna, there are the two five-star Relais & Chateaux properties, Tsala Treetops and Hunters . In town, the five-star Relais & Chateaux hotel, The Plettenberg , is the grande dame of the Garden Route; and we can warmly recommend some wonderful, good-value guesthouses, such as Periwinkle and Bosavern .
It is almost impossible to list the activities in Plett - there is so much to do. There is the whole range of marine pursuits, including whale-watching, scuba-diving, deep-sea fishing, rock-fishing, surfing, wind-surfing, soft and hard adventure activities, everything from horse-riding to tubing, sports such as golf and fishing, mountain-biking, beautiful drives, boat trips, galleries … What you cannot do is a more interesting question.
